Introducing, LUMEN
Our Beginnings
“It’s with huge excitement that I am launching this new venture. The collection you see here is the result of years of trialling, developing and honing, all fuelled by a genuine love of creating each piece. This couldn’t have been achieved without a huge amount of support from the people around me, so I have a few very particular thank you’s for those special folk who have been a part of this journey with me…
The workshop team: Rachel for the unswerving quality of your work, and to the talent that is Danielle for being an absolute grafter in the darkroom and at the sewing machine, I couldn’t have got over the finish line without you, hen! My talented friend Alison Johnston at Encompass for creating the stunning logo and website for LUMEN, and for all your wisdom throughout the years that has seen this become a reality. To my GORGEOUS pals who were so unbelievably generous with their time to model for all the photos.
To my faimly, a constant.
And to my Innes, always x.”
For the first ever Journal entry, it feels right to introduce the story behind LUMEN designs.
From photographic origins to a luxury textile brand, the LUMEN journey has been colourful and creative. The workshop where all of the pieces are created can be found in the heart of the Isle of Lewis in the building of Island Darkroom, a photographic gallery, traditional darkroom and all-round creative space.
LUMEN founder and designer, Mhairi Law, at work on a new garment. Photograph: Pierre Lansac
This is where the story of LUMEN begins.
Inspired by the quality of print that could be found by using the Cyanotype photographic process on fabric, founder and designer Mhairi Law began experimenting with the possibilities of pairing this technique in combination with the local Harris Tweed fabric.
She noticed that much of the Harris Tweed clothing on offer across textile brands were focussed to a particularly tailored and formal aesthetic, but she felt that the potential for this practical and versatile cloth could be pushed beyond the traditional. Enjoying a relaxed but thoughtful approach, Mhairi explored the potential of garments that still made full use of the robust and durable fabric, but weren’t beholden to a traditional tweed aesthetic. It started with a few one-off pieces, experiments and occasional commissions, but soon the excitement and belief in the direction of her ideas grew. Inspired by her love of relaxed forms and utilitarian clothing, a collection of garments soon began to form.
Working directly with the Harris Tweed mills, Mhairi chooses tweed options that are particular to LUMEN, often delving into the archives of patterns that may not have been seen for generations, and bringing them once again to life. Firmly against fast-fashion, the backbone of LUMEN derives from a belief that clothes - and especially ones made from Harris Tweed - should be enjoyed for generations, not just seasons.
The Cyanotype and Harris Tweed fabric combination was still an irresistible hybrid of process and texture that seemed, to Mhairi, like a match made in heaven. It’s this combination of aesthetics that began the formation of a new identity, and in time it was a realisation for Mhairi that these pieces deserved their own place to grow. Although still calling Island Darkroom ‘home’, she felt it was time for her collection to form a new, stand-alone identity – LUMEN.
This launches the start of LUMEN, and a celebration of creativity, beauty and quality. This Journal will highlight the best of this, sharing stories of the fabric, the processes, the pieces and the people who wear them. Welcome to LUMEN, thank you for starting the journey with us!